fields of flowers and windmills

close to Amendoeira da Serra, (Region of Alentejo) Portugal

I'll let this picture speak for itself.  Or better yet, comment and tell me what you think!

Alentejo is wonderful!

Fonte dos Amores

Coimbra, (Centro Region) Portugal

I first knew about this part of Portuguese history by reading the play Corona de Amor y Muerte (Crown of Love and Death) by Alejandro Casona in my university literature class many years ago.

Pedro and Inês - a Portuguese love story

In 1340 the heir to the throne of Portugal was Prince Pedro, 20 years old at the time.  His father, King Afonso IV, had arranged his marriage to Lady Costanza, a Castillian Princess.  When she arrived Portugal for the first time to officially be his wife, Pedro actually set his eyes on one of her ladies-in-waiting, Inês de Castro, and fell madly in love with her.  They became inseparable lovers.  It created such a scandal that the King ordered his son to stop seeing Inês.  Pedro ignored his father's demand and hid Inês away in a castle away from the court.  After a while, the King exiled Inês to Spain, but even that did not keep them apart.  

Later, Princess Costanza died giving birth to a son.  Pedro sent for Inês and they lived together at Santa Clara-a-Velha in Coimbra.  It is also said that they were secretly married and had four children.  The lovers would often meet near the Quinta das Lágrimas (Manor of Tears) where the Fonte dos Amores (Fountain of Love) can be found.  His requests to be with Inês were always denied by his father.  Finally, in order for Pedro to forget his obsession with Inês, the King and his three counselors planned to kill her, so Pedro would consent to marrying a princess and ensure a peace treaty with the Kingdom of Castile.

The three counselors went and tragically cut off her head in 1355.  In 1357 Pedro became King of Portugal and immediately had Inês' murderers hunted down and killed.  Pedro refused to marry any other woman.  In 1360, Pedro announced that he had secretly married Inês in Bragança with witnesses and she was declared his legitimate wife, and therefore the lawful Queen of Portugal.  Pedro had her body exhumed and taken from the Monastery of Santa Clara in Coimbra to the Monastery of Alcobaça, where she was buried with an extraordinary ceremony.

Pedro's tomb was placed opposite Inês' (foot to foot), so that on the day of the last judgment, they would rise and look into each other's eyes, meeting once again and demonstrating that true love lasts forever.

Mondego River

Coimbra, (Centro Region) Portugal

Portugal and Spain share a number of rivers, but the Mondego river is the longest river located exclusively in Portuguese territory.  It starts in the Serra da Estrela mountain chain and flows into the Atlantic Ocean.  Reference is made to this river in a great deal of Portuguese literature as well as traditional music, fado de Coimbra.

University of Coimbra

Coimbra, (Centro Region) Portugal

This university, considered to be the oldest in Portugal, was originally founded in 1290 in Lisbon by King Denis (Dinis), but later was moved to Coimbra in 1537 by King John III (João III).  This king brought in renowned university professors from all over the world and awarded many scholarships for students to study abroad.  The statue you see in the picture is dedicated to King João III.

The bell tower was built in the 18th century and can be easily spotted from many angles of the city.  It traditionally rang to mark the end of classes for students.

Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha

Coimbra, (Centro Region) Portugal

The first stones of this monastery were laid in the late 13th century on the banks of the Mondego River, however construction was delayed and really never got going again until the early 14th century, thanks to the support of Queen Elizabeth (Isabel), someone who dedicated her life to the poor.  (Click here for more information on this woman from an earlier post.)  This monastery had continuous flooding problems over the centuries and eventually had to be abandoned in the 17th century.  Another one was built on a hill nearby (Santa Clara-a-Nova) and the nuns (the Order of Saint Clare) relocated there.  Major work was done for 12 years and it reopened to the public in 2009 as an interpretation center.

In the distance, on the other side of the river, is the city of Coimbra sitting high on a hill.  The buildings rising up above the rest belong to the university with the clock tower peaking its way through.

Coimbra at dusk

Coimbra, (Centro Region) Portugal

A pleasant evening stroll around Coimbra...

ceramic tiles in Coimbra

Coimbra, (Centro Region) Portugal

These tiles are from the Psychology and Educational Sciences building at the University of Coimbra, the first university established in Portugal in the 13th century and also considered one of the oldest universities in Europe.  It is one of Portugal's largest universities with students of more than 70 different nationalities.

Ceramic tiles (azulejos - derived from an Arabic word meaning "polished stone") were introduced into Portugal through the Moors in the 15th century and later Portugal began making them themselves.  They represent a very important aspect of Portuguese architecture and have been used to cover the walls, floors and even ceilings of churches, palaces, homes and other public places through the centuries, not only for decorative purposes, but sometimes for temperature control as well.

Azulejos always attract my attention.  I think they are so beautiful and could look at them for hours!  They are everywhere in Portugal!

Neptune fountain

Madrid, Spain

This fountain of Neptune, Roman god of water and the sea, is the sculpture decorating Cánovas del Castillo Square in the heart of Madrid.  Ventura Rodríguez was the architect who designed this square and Juan Pascual de Mena was the sculptor who carried out the work using white marble.  He started in 1782, but two years later died and work was taken over by his student, José Arias, among others, and work was completed in 1786.

Fans of the soccer team Atlético de Madrid flock here to celebrate their team's title victories.  Just 500 meters up the avenue, the Real Madrid soccer fans celebrate theirs in Cibeles Square.

chariots on Alcalá Street

Madrid, Spain

Designed by the Basque sculptor Higinio de Basterra at the turn of the 20th century, these chariots adorn the BBVA building on Alcalá Street, number 16.  Twenty-five tons of copper, bronze, lead and iron were used to complete these masterpieces.

Walk along Alcalá Street with your head up, otherwise you'll miss many of these details!

Gran Vía / Alcalá

Madrid, Spain

In the heart of Madrid where the famous Gran Vía branches off Alcalá Street, two very emblematic buildings can be found, La Unión y el Fénix (original owners) on the left and the Grassy Building on the right.  La Unión y el Fénix insurance building was designed in 1911 by two French architects, Jules and Raymond Février.  In the 1970s, this building was sold to Metrópolis, another insurance company, who are the owners today.  The Grassy building contained homes and a prestigious watch shop on the ground floor run by Alejandro Grassy, a Swiss watchmaker.  This building was designed by a Spanish architect, Eladio Laredo, in 1915.  Today it is home to a watch museum.

I love observing the details of many of the magnificent buildings that can be found in Madrid.  Often times, with the hustle and bustle of life, we don't take the time to really step back and take a look at the beauty that surrounds us.

Compañía Asturiana de Minas

Madrid, Spain

This building often gets overlooked.  If you're ever walking by Plaza España down Bailén street, stop and take a look at the detail of this wonderful building.  The Mine Company of Asturias had it built at the end of the 19th century, designed by the architect Manuel Martínez Ángel.  This architect also lived here, but was tragically shot outside his door by one of his students for having failed an important exam that would have entitled him to a prestigious job working for the city hall.  This building was used later by the government of Madrid as the central office for culture until 2012.  Today it sits empty... such a pity.

The next time I go to Madrid, I'll have to get a picture that isn't quite so crooked!

bubbles in the Plaza Mayor

Madrid, Spain

The Plaza Mayor of Madrid dates back to the late 1500s and has gone through many transformations over the centuries due to a series of fires in 1631, 1670 and 1790.  Nine entrances lead into this grand square which is lined with 237 balconies decorating the three-story residential buildings on all four sides.  Historically this square was used for bullfights, markets, soccer games, public executions and an array of other things.  Today it is surrounded by shops, restaurants and cafés and is used as a place to gather and entertain like the man in the photo making gigantic bubbles!

Atocha

Madrid, Spain

The first train station in Madrid was inaugurated in 1851 and destroyed by fire years later.  In the same space, this new station was built and opened in 1892 under the name Estación de Madrid Atocha (Madrid Atocha Railway Station), named after a nearby basilica Nuestra Señora de Atocha (Our Lady of Atocha).  The architect of the new station was Alberto de Palacio y Elissague, a former student of the famous Alexandre Gustave Eiffel.

Peña de Alájar

Alájar, (Huelva - Andalucía) Spain

This bell tower sits high above the town of Alájar and offers incredible views of the countryside of Huelva.  There is a pilgrimage every September 8th to the 16th century hermitage of Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles located just a few meters from this lookout point.

Plaza del Marqués de Aracena

 Aracena, (Huelva - Andalucía) Spain

Due to the new growth at the end of the 19th century, many high-class families from Seville came here to build their summer residences.  These stately homes surround this square (Plaza del Marqués de Aracena) creating a fusion of modernism with Andalusian regionalism.  The building on the left, the Arias Montano Casino Society, was designed in 1893 by the Spanish architect Aníbal González, the same architect who designed the Plaza España in Seville.  This building was used as a social club for the thriving land owners and local aristocracy.

Aracena

Aracena, (Huevla - Andalucía) Spain

Aracena is one of the 28 whitewashed towns in the province of Huelva that make up the Sierra de Aracena Natural Park system.  A 13th century castle built over an old Muslim fortress overlooks this town, known today for the frequently visited cave located directly below the castle extending over 2000 meters, of which more than 1000 meters can be visited.  Aracena is also known for its tasty Iberian cured ham produced from acorn-fed black pigs.

Grazalema

Grazalema, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

The small town of Grazalema is one of many whitewashed villages found within the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park.  This park is great for hiking, offering peaks as high as 1654 meters, but unfortunately this particular town, curiously enough, registers the highest annual rainfall in the entire Iberian Peninsula, despite the fact that many other places in Andalucía suffer from drought year after year.

Did it rain when I visited Grazalema?  -Yes, it did.  

When is the best time to visit?  June - September.  

What month on average registers the most rain?  -December.  

When did I visit?  -December!  

Oops!  :)

benches

Tarifa, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

Oh, the stories these benches have heard...  :)

Strait of Gibraltar

Tarifa, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

The Strait of Gibraltar separates Europe from Africa and joins the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea.  A little over 14 km (under 9 miles) marks the distance between the two narrowest points of this body of water.  Note the silhouette of Africa in the distance in this picture.

Because of the strong winds caused by the straits, Tarifa is a wind and kitesurfing mecca.  One of the beaches in Tarifa goes on for 10 km (6 miles) along the southwestern coastline of Spain giving surfers plenty of room to catch some waves.  Birdwatching, especially the migration of storks to and from Africa in spring and autumn, is also a popular activity for many people, along with whale and dolphin watching.

Tarifa

Tarifa, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

Tarifa is a wonderful town on the southernmost coast of Spain and is considered the southernmost point of the European continent as well.  It is a laid-back whitewashed town full of narrow labyrnth-like streets and was under Muslim rule between 710-1292.  The church in the picture (San Mateo) was built on the remains of an ancient mosque in 1506.

This picture was taken from the roof-top of one of the coolest places I've ever stayed, Pensión Correo, an old restored house with a patio in the heart of the historical town center.

Andalusian patio

 

Arcos de la Frontera, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

The magic of walking down the streets in these picturesque whitewashed villages is when you stumble across the door of a private home open and discover this!

Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

Arcos de la Frontera is another of the many whitewashed villages spotted throughout the countryside of Andalucía.  Built on a ridge, serving as a natural fortress in medieval times, this town full of narrow cobblestone streets overlooking the Guadalete River is surrounded by wheat and sunflower fields, vineyards and orchards.

It's quite the sight to see when driving down the road and an even bigger thrill to explore its steep winding streets and experience it firsthand.

Sand dunes

Bolonia, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

How can you beat this?!

Bolonia is a great place for an escape.  This massive sand dune of over 30 meters in height, surrounded by pine trees and other vegetation, overlooks the beach of Bolonia.  The coast of Africa can also be seen from afar when you gaze across the Strait of Gibralter.

Vejer de la Frontera

Vejer de la Frontera, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

This gem sitting atop a hill less than five miles (8 km) from the unspoiled white-sand beaches of the Atlantic Ocean was under Muslim rule for more than 500 years (711-1248).  It is surrounded by orchards and olive groves making agriculture and fruit-farming its chief industries.

Remote whitewashed villages like this one are spotted all over the countryside, making beautiful backdrops as you are exploring this alluring area of Spain.  Vejer de la Frontera is a perfect place to get lost by wandering its steep narrow streets and admiring its stunning views.  This is by far one of my favorite places in all of Spain!

Treat yourself by staying at the charming la Botica, exact place from where this picture is taken!  I absolutely love Vejer de la Frontera!  :)

Bolonia

Bolonia, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

Ever feel like dropping what you're doing and taking a break?  
Go ahead.  
Go for it!

Bulls on the beach!

Bolonia, (Cádiz - Andalucía) Spain

Bolonia is a slice of heaven, located at almost the southernmost tip of Spain on the Atlantic Ocean.  There is an enormous sand dune from which you can enjoy beautiful views of the endless beach below (2.4 miles long, 3.8 km and an average 230 feet wide, 70 m).  Also found next to the beach are the ruins of a Roman town, Baelo Claudia, considered to be the most complete Roman town ruins yet uncovered in Spain and then an important trading center between Europe and Africa.  Cows and bulls wander freely throughout this town of a little over 100 people.

This area is at the top of my list of places I have visited.  If you're looking for peace and tranquility, this is it!  The sound of the water alone is enough to make you want to stay forever.

Toro

Toro, (Zamora - Castilla y León) Spain

The town of Toro, in the province of Zamora, is known as a wine producing region located along the Duero River.  Its wine history goes long back; it is said that Christopher Columbus took Toro wine with him on his expedition in 1492 because of its ability to withstand the long journey, due to its structure and body.  The Collegiate church of Santa María la Mayor, dating to the 12th century, is found at the end of this street and is an example of traditional Romanesque architecture.

Frómista

Frómista, (Palencia - Castilla y León) Spain

This 11th century church, San Martín de Tours, found in Frómista along the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James), is a wonderful example of Spanish Romanesque architecture.  More than 300 decorative figures (with animal, human, mythological and fantastic figures including some erotic scenes) run along the eaves of the church.

It is said that the province of Palencia in Castilla y León has the greatest concentration of Romanesque churches and shrines in Europe.  If you enjoy seeing this style of architecture (as I do), you really do have an endless number of possibilities of things to discover in this area!

Casa de las Conchas

Salamanca, (Castilla y León) Spain

This 16th century palace was named for the more than 300 scallop shells clinging to its façade.  This construction has both Gothic and Renaissance influences on the outside; the decorative and protective wrought iron window bars represent a superb example of Gothic and the ornamental façade decoration is very representative of Renaissance times.  The interior two-tiered patio has Mudejar and Renaissance influences.  Today this palace is used as an art gallery, the public library of Salamanca as well as the office of tourism.

Coca

Coca, (Segovia - Castilla y León) Spain

This 15th century castle in Coca is one of the few fortresses that was not built on top of a hill.  It is made of brick, typical of Mudejar style architecture which emerged as an architectural style in the 12th century on the Iberian peninsula.  This style is the result of Muslim and Christian cultures living side by side and is considered a reinterpretation of Western cultural styles through Islamic influences.

Sepúlveda

Sepúlveda, (Segovia - Castilla y León) Spain

Sepúlveda is another medieval town like many others to be found throughout the country.  It is set in the heart of the Hoces del Río Duratón Natural Park.  Gorges as high as 100 meters can be found in this park formed by the passing of the Duratón River.

This area is known for its tasty roast lamb and garlic soup.  Find out for yourself in one of the many restaurants to be found in Sepúlveda!